Solo Trip

Classes have started. My first week is now under my belt and while everyday seems to be an up and down rollercoaster of good classes and not necessarily good classes, my emotional state is in a constant downward funk. I am starting to feel trapped and constantly surrounded by people. I like who I work with, but there is a part of me that needs to feel independence. I'm going to the same places so exploration is at a standstill and I'm not taking charge of what I want and need to do to get me back to feeling like me.

Enough! My apartment doesn't even feel like me. So it's time to start rearranging. The first day in Seoul, Meghan and Amanda took Kelly and I to Insadong to walk around. I remembered seeing things that I really liked and decide that after work I'm heading down there on my own.

I get directions from Meghan and head to Balsan station. The subway is quiet for the most part so I put on my headphones and listen to some music. A little bit of Greensky, the Ragbirds, Rilo Kiley, and the cast from Glee help set the tone for the evening. Station Jongno 3 approaches and I get off the subway and look for the correct exit. Insadong - exit 5. Hooray!

Heading up the stairs I realize that at this point I'm more than likely going to need to ask someone for directions. I'm not afraid. This is good. I reach the top of the stairs and notice 2 foreigners. Perhaps they're looking for the same place I am. I ask. "Are you looking for Insadong?" Yes. Or should I say oui. They're French. They mumble something and I start to walk with them. Then I realize they don't know where they're going and they are trying to ignore me. This is why I didn't go to France when I was in Europe. Not all French people are mean but some of them can be very rude!

I see a woman standing behind a counter and say in my best Korean accent (or lack thereof) - "Insadong?" She points in the direction I just came from and says nothing. Lovely. So I walk back the other way passing the 2 French women and say politely, "Insadong is this way." They start to walk with me. I ask them twice if they are visiting or if they live here and they completely ignore me. How rude!

I begin to set my own pace and head for a dark underpass. It looks a bit sketchy so I look for someone to confirm that I'm heading in the correct direction. An old taxi cab driver is wiping his sweaty forehead after fixing his flat tire. He looks harmless so I ask "Insadong?" He smiles and starts making huge gestures like a referee at a football game and screams "STRAIGHT! STRAIGHT!" Why do we always talk louder, almost screaming, when we're talking to someone who does not speak our own language? It's almost as if we believe that yelling increases the other person's comprehension of the foreign mumbo jumbo falling from our lips. Regardless, I am propelled forward in the correct direction, or so I think.

I cross the road, come out of the dark tunnel and I have made it to Insadong! The shops are more than likely a tourist trap, but some of the items are beautiful and I feel like I'm in Saugatuck or South Haven back home - minus the water. Lots of tiny shops blanket the mostly pedestrian road and street vendors want nothing more than to sell you everything they have.

I must remember my mission to find things to decorate the apartment! Oh but that would be so cute on my niece! My mom would like this! Focus Mb focus! I purchase a pack of postcards. I wander some more and find this artist's shop that doesn't even have a real door - you have to walk through plastic - like the kind of plastic you would see covering an entry to the back part at a meat market. This is my kind of shop. Tiny, with a cute old man who is painting away. I purchase my first wall decoration and am I excited! The man smiles and in broken English tells me he is the painter of the piece I have chosen. That's what I like to hear!

I continue on to a few more stores and also purchase a paper lamp that is gorgeous. I just wonder how I will be able to get it back to the States someday, but for now, it doesn't matter.

The sky is growing darker and my stomach is starting to make alien noises. It's time to head home and eat some dinner. I pass a coffee shop and decide to get a latte for the ride home. So now I'm carrying my work bag, big shopping bag and a latte. I enter the Subway and board the train. With no open hands I sit down and am a bit uncomfortable. The man next to me taps my arm and points up. There's a luggage rack above. Cool. With my hands full I'm a bit crabobbled so I ask if he'll hold my coffee. He takes it with a bit of a giggle and I unload my stuff on the luggage rack.

The car of the train is particularly loud and my new friend does not like this at all. He says, "It's too loud. No talking on the train!" We chit chat for a bit about where he lives and where I'm from and his English seems to be at an intermediate level. He says he usually falls asleep on the train because it takes so long for him to get home. A lot of people fall asleep - sometimes you'll see a whole bench full of people sleeping. My transfer stop approaches, I say good bye to my new friend, and board the number 9 train me home. With my headphones in my ears, the sound of DeBussy's Claire de Lune spreads peace throughout my mind.

I needed to do this on my own. I needed to feel independence and navigate the subway on my own. While hours before my trip I was feeling trapped and in a funk, now I feel free and confident. I can't wait to discover more of this city. I can't wait to make this place my home.

The First Day

The first day of school is here. In the States more than any of the senses, I always associated the first day of school with a particular smell. Mostly the smell of morning dew and the fresh air as I walked to school in elementary and middle school. But on this first day, I don't notice the smells surrounding me. For one, my nose has not been able to sense smell since entering Korea. Secondly, it's not my first day as a student, but my first day ever as a pre-school and elementary teacher. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

Meghan, Kelly, and I leave our apartment complex to get to the school earlier than our designated 9:10 start time. I want plenty of time to prep and hopefully calm my nerves.
9:40 approaches...quickly. Oh crap, here we go!

Liz is there to assist me. I had observed her the previous week to see how she managed her 6 year-old classroom. She is about to embark on a journey throughout southeast asia, but lucky for me, she has not yet left Korea and is there to help me with the first day.

Attendance. I look at the list for Mango class. All of the names are Korean names...duh! Of course they wouldn't have their English name listed yet. Liz saves the day and helps me call names. No one is crying in my class yet but you can hear other kids in the hallway shed tears of anxiety and pure fear. I say a quick one that there aren't any criers today. Next it's time to line up for a brief assembly in the Rainbow Room (aka multi-purpose room). So how do you tell 11 six year-olds who don't speak any English to line up? Hmm...answer: just say it and see what happens. I head towards the door. One girl knows what to do. Hooray! Despite the fact that it took 10 minutes to get everyone lined up, we still manage and I start to relax a bit.

We make our way down the hallway, fairly quietly might I add, and attend the assembly. When we get back to class, the real fun begins. Let's see what they know. They can say their abc's! The can count to 10! We sing a song. I dance around like a gumba - oh if my friends back home could see me now. The kids are into it. Mango class is over. Not too bad! On to Orange class!

Let me give you an idea of how the school is set up. Pre-school starts at 9:40 and dismisses at 2:20pm. In the morning, students have a Korean teacher and a Foreign teacher. So, I have two, first year, six year-old classes that last 80 minutes each. I start with Mango class, get a 10 minute break and change to Orange class teaching the same material to both. After lunchtime, the kids have one Korean teacher session and then an extra class - Cooking, Science, Phonics, Project Writing, or Art. In the afternoons, I get to teach art to first year students (mostly six year-olds). But on this first day (which is a Wednesday), I don't have afternoon pre-school.

As for my Korean teaching partner, I am very lucky to have Kelly. She is fabulous! It's nice to have a partnership where each person is there to help the other out and share "war" stories at the end of the day.

So I get to Orange class, go through the same motions of trying to assess their knowledge and do OK. Thanks again to Liz for helping me move things along and get the kids lined up for bathroom break. Orange class is a bit more difficult today as they like to speak Korean much more than the other class. All you can do in that situation is throw you hands up and say my Dad's favorite statement (not) - I don't know.

I still have 3 classes to teach after pre-school so I use my down time (from not having the afternoon pre-school classes) to plan. Two of my classes are first year students. And my final class is a 3rd year class. My desk turns into a preverbial dump. Oh I need to get organized. The teaching program for the afternoon classes have a Teacher's Resource Book, the Teacher's Book with lesson plans, and then a Student Book, Workbook, Homework Book (only for the Korean teacher), Phonics Book (1st year only) and Vocabulary Book. That's a lot of books.

Planning time flies by again and I head to my first afternoon class. These students have just had a full day at school and are now heading to English class. Some of them may have more classes such as taekwondo or piano lessons to attend after the time they spend at our school. Korean children sometimes stay up until one in the morning in order to finish their homework; then get up and do it all over again.

The head teacher helps me with attendance in my first class and then comes my favorite part. I get to give some of my students their English name! Hooray! I give them three options. Some of them can't decide so they are given a temporary name for the day. (One student later in the week selects Jerry - my dad's name.) The first class goes fairly well. The students know some English, but getting them to select the correct book is a bit difficult - the books are all gray so students keep grabbing the wrong one.

Now it's time for the second class (same level and material as the previous group). Oh dear. Lots of boys - they are around 7 or 8 years old. I again get to name a few students - and their behavior has certainly made them a perfect fit for their name. We start with "Hello! My name is ___________." No, your name is not Marybeth Teacha (Teacher). Then I get to Tom. MY NAME IS TOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!! OK. We're 15 minutes into class and Tom is starting to say "GOOD-BYE TEACHAAAAAA!!!" Not yet Tom. He stops for a few minutes and then starts up again. The boys are getting antsy. It's getting close to the end of class. "GOOD-BYE TEACHAAAAAA!!!!" Wait 20 seconds. "GOOD-BYE TEACHAAAA!!!!" The bell rings. I dismiss the class. "GOOD-BYE TEACHAAAAA!!!!" All the way down the hallway. Good-bye Tom! Despite the constant good-byes, he's such a smart kid and I can't help but laugh to myself everytime he says "GOOD-BYE TEACHAAAA!!!" And trust me, it's been two and a half weeks and he still does it - just not as frequently.

One more class to go...3rd year.
They speak English! We talk food. I'm so hungry! The kids are hungry too. We get through the lesson for the day and play a spelling game. The kids listen, raise their hands, are polite (for the most part), and most importantly are engaged in the lesson! These kids are my only students who are not in their first year of learning English. It's a great way to end the day every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.

At the end of day one, I am excited to be teaching in Korea. I look forward to watching my students grow in their English speaking capabilities and hope that I will become a great teacher. But for now, what's for dinner? I'm hungry!

The Long Weekend - Part II

It's Sunday. The six of us have just finished a healthy breakfast of croissants, hot choco or coffee, and grabbed some additional food to take to the temple. Now it's time to get to the bus station.

Rollercoaster Ride

We figure out which bus to hop on and wait at the stop. A rather frantic bus pulls up and we attempt to get on not knowing how much the ride will cost. The driver is yelling at us to get on the bus quickly (we think). I'm the last one in line and he is attempting to shut the door. We have made him late! We figure out how much the ride will cost and pay. Then the ride of doom begins. We leave the city and begin winding through a somewhat picturesque hilly area. The bus driver is driving like a maniac and is taking hairpin turns at full speed. Our bodies are thrown from side to side in our seats. I am doubled over with laughter as I consider that he may end up tipping the bus if he continues at this rate. I am laughing too loudly and the americans are shushed by the driver who continues to smile. I do wonder what he was thinking.

About 40 minutes into our rollercoaster ride, the driver yells out Golgulsa!!!!! We must hurry and get off the bus. He points in the direction we should walk and says "2 kilometers!"

We cross the road (after the bus passes of course) and are slightly concerned about the direction we need to go. We could be potentially walking down the road to nowhere. Hmm...

But of course our trusty bus driver did not lead us astray and soon we approach the entrance to the temple grounds.

Temple Stay - Day 1

We check in and are given a brief overview of the schedule, expectations, and how to properly bow. There's a lot of bowing, so it's good to know how ahead of time. The males and females stay on separate floors and neither is allowed in the opposite sex's room. We'll be sleeping on the floor. Comfy. However the floor is heated (like most floors in Korea - their heating system is called ondul - I LOVE IT!!!!).

Our first activity is to make lotus flower paper lanterns for a night time ceremony honoring the first full moon of the year (they celebrate the lunar new year). Hooray for arts and crafts! Everyone's lantern looks completely different in terms of colors used and pattern and all are stunningly beautiful.

Around 3p.m. we take a brief break to watch a sunmudo demonstration. Sunmudo is a form of martial arts that we will learn on Monday. As we begin to climb up to the demonstration, we realize there are too many people and won't be able to see. So, we decide to climb up higher on the left side to get more of an aerial view...he he he. Let me emphasize, the climb up the hill to the demonstration area is a steep one. Very steep - this hill will be mentioned again. On the right side of the hill, if you look to the right, the stone statue of buddha from the sixth century is quite a climb farther up. You definitely do not want to lose your footing.

Next up, dinner time. You can only enter through the middle door if you are a mere human (not a monk or junior monk). You must eat everything on your plate - no matter how hot or bad the food is. I take small portions and lots of rice. The food isn't too bad but I am a little glad about the bagel that I had earlier.

Dinner ends so we grab our lanterns (with a wish for yourself attached) and load up onto a bus that takes us to the sea. We get to the beach and there are hundreds upon hundreds of lanterns lit on the sand. A huge fire burns brightly providing additional light for the ceremony and will be used to burn our lotus lanterns later. The moon is gorgeous, the lanterns provide quite an overwhelming ambience, and for a brief moment I am transported back in time to Sitges, Spain where 4 of us eating croissants and drinking coffee looked at each other and exclaimed what fortunate lives we have. I am very fortunate to be in Korea. To be in this moment and sharing it with new friends is amazing.

After the ceremony and burning our lanterns in the huge fire, we head back to the temple grounds and call it a night - it's only 9p.m. or so, but we are exhausted and have to be up at 4a.m.

Temple Stay - Day 2

The gong is ringing. Oh it's so early. I'm moving at the pace of a snail and have to climb that damn hill to get to the morning chanting service. Kelly and I brush our teeth and realize we have to haul butt to get to the temple. We break into a run. I am huffing and puffing up the treacherous hill. It's too early to run!!! We make it with only a couple of minutes to spare. Then the service begins. Stand up, sit down, bow, stand up, sit down, bow...things are getting splotchy. Is the room spinning? Am I having a religious experience? I hate cold sweating. Oooohhhh, I'm not feeling too good. Stand up, sit down, bow..stand up - the walls are closing in. I attempt to look back at Jen and Brittany and mouth "help." My knees buckle and I fall into the wall. Sweet. I'm going to faint. I try to collect myself and look back to our orientation lady. She points to the door and miraculously I stand up and run out the door. I really hope I don't have to do 3,000 bows because I had to leave. That's the punishment for monks who miss the service. Not a minute later Kelly comes flying out of the temple too. We're certainly a hot mess. Stupid hill!

We grab some water and at a certain point I tell myself to go back in. The service is over. Noooo!!!! But there's 15 minutes of meditation - sitting down. Hooray! After meditation, we climb up a little higher to start a meditative walk. I'm feeling better. Then it starts to rain. No walk. We go back to sleep for an hour, have breakfast, and nap some more.

Now it's time for sunmudo training. Our teacher is french and every time he says breath I think he's saying breast. I cannot laugh in this class! I maintain composure and attempt to complete the gumby-like stretches. My personal favorite involves sitting with your legs hip-distance apart. Using momentum twist your upper torso and dive to the floor so your torso is lying front side down while your legs and hips stay where they are (knees toward ceiling). French teacher comes and presses on my shoulders - ouch! Man I miss pilates! We learn one kick and one block and class is over. I may need a chiropractor but my alien card hasn't come in yet.

The next activity is to do 108 bows. 108 times kneeling, bowing (forehead to floor), and then standing up. Start again. Each of the 108 bows means something and we're given a list in English so we know what the Korean tape is saying. I bow to give thanks for my family. I bow to know that the universe flows through me. I bow to know that love is everywhere. And the list goes on...I lose track of which number we're on. I read faster. Maybe I read too far ahead. Concentrate on my favorite one...then it ends and I have one more to go. Blast!!! I thought I would get tired and my legs would give out, but I think that because you're focusing on the words and what they mean, the physical aspect doesn't seem so demanding. You will, however, certainly feel it the next day...and the next. And maybe, if you're lucky, you'll still be sore the next day.

Our final activity is to have tea with our french teacher and to ask him questions. A few questions are asked but it's primarily quiet. The stay comes to a close after lunch and it's time to head back to Seoul.

It's been a fabulous trip (minus the fainting part) but I can't wait to get back to work on the feng shui in my apartment and to learn more about the city in which I live.

The Long Weekend - Part I

With the first week of training under my belt, it was time to settle in for the first weekend in Seoul...well, not exactly. The previous Sunday..aka the first day in Korea...Meghan had mentioned spending the weekend at a buddhist temple. Sweet! What a way to start off my Korean adventure!
By Friday I was a bit hesitant to leave for the weekend as I had not even moved into my apartment yet. I had bags that needed to be unpacked and maybe it would be better to stay in town and get settled. But I had made the commitment and life is meant to be lived...bags can be unpacked later. And so let the great weekend begin!

Saturday. 5:38 a.m.
I'm freezing on the couch in Kelly's new apartment. I hear Meghan's voice outside on the street. Perfect! I'm not sleeping anyways so I get up, grab my bags and proceed to my new apartment just down the hall. (Meghan took Amanda to the airport - I moved in to Amanda's apartment.)
I open the door...hmm...it needs some work but perhaps I'll just make my bed and go back to sleep. For those of you who know me, Ms. Organization, this was the dumbest idea ever. After making my bed, those suitcases and backpack just seemed to be longing to get unpacked. Please unpack me. OK.
9a.m. - completely unpacked. Clothes stored. Furniture somewhat moved. Floor swept. Garbage heap created. Time to shower in order to be ready to leave for Gyeongju for the weekend.
There's a knock at the door. Plan foiled again! Meghan has stopped by to tell me she has decided not to come on the trip and I am bummed. At this point, there's no time left for a shower so I throw some clothes into my newly acquired backpack (thanks Amanda!) and head to the lobby.
Even though it would have been wonderful to have Meghan come along for the trip, our group now makes an even six. We take the subway and hop on the train with a few minutes to spare.
It will take 4 and a half hours to get to Gyeongju...plenty of time for a nap. So I sleep for a bit. Koreans are quite quiet on public transportation. Lovely. Later on in the journey Kelly and I strike up a conversation and are quickly given a piece of paper from a female in front of us. It says, "Please the volume down. Thank you!" Conversation halts. Time to nap some more.

Gyeongju & the Hostel

We arrive in Gyeongju and head to the Hanjin Hostel. Our host is quite friendly and funny. Apparently we have to come back 2 more times during the year because there is so much to do there. He shows us all to our shared room which is decorated to feel like home and has a huge pile of blankets in the corner. Then there's the bathroom. Well....the bathroom seemed like it was out of a scene from a horror film. Something scary could come out of the drain of the bathtub any minute! I should say though that if I do return to this city again I will stay at this very same hostel. The host truly made it worth the stay.
After getting situated it's time to find some food. Our host gives us a map with some restaurants and other sites to see on it. We're off! We stopp at the "Cheap Restaurant" for some Bulgolgi and I am extremely to finally eat a meal the traditional Korean way - on the floor - Hooray!
We decide to see some of the sites and visit Chonmachong Tomb (mind you it was completely dark outside by this point), the grocery store, and another convenience store. While this may seem boring, it became quite an adventure as we got a bit lost and it was also my first time in a grocery store. Looking at the different kinds of food was...interesting. Oh and by the way, don't try ionic drinks, they taste weird and I think may be the cause of the random twitches that I now suffer from...Just kidding.
Knowing that we're going to have to wake up early on Monday (mind you it's only Saturday night), we decide to head back to the hostel and call it a night. Indiana Jones is playing on TV...very nice. Time to sleep.

Sunday & the Sauna
It's now 9 a.m. I need a shower. But the bathroom might eat me. Jen mentions there is a nearby sauna and it's the equivalent to $4. I've never been to a Korean sauna, so I decide to pull up my big girl pants and give it a try. So the four girls head out. Keep in mind that I have just met them this week.
We get to the sauna, pay our dues, are given towels, and head up to the locker room. I thought the whole nudity thing would be weird, but in the end, it's really just women who need to take a shower and want to climb into a hot or cold tub or sit in the baking room (as I like to call them). I thought I would be self-conscious but I didn't have my glasses on or contacts in so even if someone was looking at me funny I couldn't see them. What's the big deal?
Mission accomplished - I am clean.

The girls head back to the hostel and pick up the remaining two boys in our party. It's time hop on a bus for Golgulsa...stay tuned.